Escape in N. Laos

Tucked away in the shadows of rippling limestone mountains and inaccessible by road sits the tiny riverside village Meuang Ngoi Neua.

About four hours north of Luang Prabang (6 hours by boat), and an hour upstream from Nong Khiaw, Meuang Ngoi Neua is a serene and isolated illustration of simple serenity.

Here, life is unrushed and follows the same natural rhythm it has for generations; here, time seems to have taken a standstill.

Over the years, Meuang Ngoi Neua has steadily drawn more tourists, increasing from less than 100 in 1999 to more than 3,000 in 2004. But despite the increase of visitors, the village has maintained its natural charm. Today, it boasts more guesthouses than in years past, but, the overall atmosphere of Meuang Ngoi Neua hasn't been detrimentally altered it's attraction to visitors has remained the same: the beauty.

In Meuang Ngoi Neua there's not one Internet shop to be found, no Friends, no cars or motorbikes choking the air with their abrasive sounds or exhaust. Electricity is very limited and the river still provides the village's main source of livelihood - fishing and farming. The nearest bank is in Luang Prabang about 4 hours away.

After the electricity goes out at 10pm, the stars shine so brilliantly that they illuminate footpaths with their light and highlight the silhouettes of the massive dark mountains.

Only one street runs the village's length and dirt paths lead off to the myriad riverside guesthouses, all of which are basic bungalows ($1-$2) with shared bathrooms (no hot water) and no air conditioning. However, each bungalow features a balcony equipped with a hammock (or two) for soaking up the unbelievable view, which is easily Meuang Ngoi Neua's best 'entertainment' offering.

When you're ready to stretch your legs, take a short scenic walk (2 kilometer) out of town through rice fields, farmland, forest and streams to visit Tham Kang and Tham Ph Kaew caves. The mountains surrounding the caves are quite climbable, if you've got the gumption and the crystal clear stream running through Tham Kang makes for a refreshing post-exercise dip.

Back in the village, there's the opportunity to swim in the Nam Ou River, where you can also rent an inner tube if so inspired or jump on a boat with local fishermen who will happily show you how to properly cast a net.

To reach Meuang Ngoi Neua from Luang Prabang, take a 3-hour bus to Nong Khiaw (18,000 kip) and a one-hour boat ride to the village.

A direct boat ride from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw is also an option at 100,000 kip.